China Day 2: Kunming to Dali

Day 1: Border crossing, 9-hr (maybe?) bus ride from Hekou to Kunming. Night in a four-bedroom (two bunks) room at an International Youth Hostel.

Day 2 (4 May 08): Spend the morning lounging in the hostel, catch a 1:00 bus to Dali. Hubert, one of the travelers I met on the bus, explores Kunming for a few hours before catching a 40-hr train to Shanghai on his way to Mongolia. I give James my email and tell him to contact me when he gets to Dali, since he mentioned staying in Kunming for a while as well, but then he decides to jump on the bus with me. So I've ended up with a travel partner -- at least for this bus ride.

We have a nice little bus ride, I think about four hours, and get to Xiaguan, the city nearest Dali Old Town. We try to bargain with a cab driver to give us a cheaper ride to the Old Town but end up taking a bus instead. The bus cost us about 2 yuan each, compared to 40 split between four (we found two other girls to share with) and 7 yuan is US$1, so you do the math. After about 30 minutes of standing on a crowded city bus, all the while my 30-lb backpack strapped on, we finally make it to Dali Old Town and it starts to rain. We wander around for longer than expected trying to find a hostel to stay at and end up near the East Gate at a lovely little place called Hostel #7 or something like that. Free internet and free laundry sounds like a deal so we throw our bags down for the night. We go the cheap route, as always, and pay 20 yuan for a dorm bed... errr I mean a tent. Our room has a total of six tents and the walls are painted with trees. There's even a big rope-light star on the ceiling, very fun.

Downstairs to throw in some laundry and I see James talking to an older man of about 70 or 80, I can't quite remember. His name is Arnold and he talks quite a bit, but has some interesting things to say. He's originally from the States but has lived in Europe for quite some time; we invite him to grab a bite to eat with us. The three of us walk up the street, Arnold being pretty quick on his feet and me, exhausted as I am, having quite a time just keeping in step with the two. We stop at a place just up the street with loads of veggies and even some seafood, pick out a couple of things, and they cook them all up real good and before we know it we've got too much food to eat. Complimented with green tea, of course, of which I drink probably five cups, and Arnold only drinks one because otherwise he'll be up all night. Arnold tells us his stories of which I presently can't recall but which James can inform me of later because I know he remembers many of them because they were absolutely amazing. Arnold is a legend in his own time.

Finish up our dinner and James being the social butterfly he is suggests we check out Dali's nightlife. There's not a whole lot to it, especially since it was a bit wet outside, but we hop inside an empty cafe for a drink. I order a Kahlua and coffee and Arnold gets some tea. He won't mind being up a little bit later. It's very chilly outside so we grab an upstairs table where the windows are closed. I'm informed by James that the bathroom has a sign reading "No Shitting" or something to that extent. Finish with our drinks and head to another place down the street, Bad Monkey.

Real nice crowd there and even some Johnny Cash being played by a guy on a guitar. Smells like grass inside. Probably the liveliest place in Dali but still very chill, thanks to the amazingly comfortable furniture and pillows they've got. Drink a few Dali beers, Arnold goes back to the campsite, and James and I hang out for a while longer, finish our beer, and head back for the night. All in all a relaxing evening in Dali. Excited to explore a bit tomorrow.